50 Hours on the Bengaluru to Agartala Humsafar Express: A Journey of Discovery
Why I will consider flight over train for future travels in India.
In December 2023, I decided to visit Sikkim with a friend, eager to explore its beauty and culture. Our adventure began from Bengaluru on the Agartala Humsafar Express, a 50-hour train ride that was indeed an unforgettable experience!
Reaching Sikkim from Bengaluru: Firstly, there are no direct trains or flights to Sikkim. The nearest railway station is New Jalpaiguri (NJP), close to Siliguri in West Bengal. From NJP, you can take a local shared taxi to Sikkim. It costs around 400 rupees per person and 5 hours to Gangtok, the capital city.
The second option is to fly from Bangalore to Bagdogra Airport in West Bengal. You can hire a shared taxi or a private vehicle from Bagdogra Airport to reach Gangtok. The journey is about 124 kilometers and takes the same time as from NJP (5 hours). The drive offers stunning views of the mountains and the Teesta River, making the trip an experience in itself.
The AGTL Humsafar Express (12503) by Indian Railways is a popular choice for travelers journeying from Bangalore to Jalpaiguri. Operating twice a week on Tuesdays and Fridays, this train covers a distance of approximately 2567 kilometers. Departing from Whitefield at 10:42 AM(Day 1), it arrives at New Jalpaiguri Junction (NJP) at 04:20 AM (Day 3), making the journey around 42 hours, one of the fastest options on this route.
During this journey, the train passes through several states, providing passengers with a diverse and scenic view of India’s landscapes. Starting from Karnataka and Tamil Nadu on day one, it then passes Andhra Pradesh. On the second day, the journey takes the train through Odisha and West Bengal, followed by Bihar and again West Bengal on the third day, finally reaching its destination.
Humsafar Express turned into Hum-Suffer Express!! ( ‘Hum’ in Hindi means ‘we’).
Imagine booking a ticket for a comfortable and safe journey, and ending up yourself in a nightmare on wheels. That’s exactly what happened when we boarded the Humsafar Express from Bangalore to NJP.
Firstly, the train was troubled with delays, starting almost 4 hours late. As if that wasn’t enough, the compartments were overflowing with travelers, many of whom didn’t even have tickets. Despite booking a 3rd AC compartment, we found ourselves crammed with 13 people instead of the standard 8 seater.
The situation only worsened as the journey progressed. Toilets which are essential for such a long journey, were terrible — dirty, smelly, and some even with broken locks. The constant fights and disturbances throughout the night made sleep impossible, while the overpowering smell of gutka and pan parag being consumed by fellow passengers added to the discomfort.
Behind the Illusion: Indian Railway and the reality of waste disposal.
One of the most disappointing aspects of this train journey was the observation of the on-board housekeeping service (OBHS) on the train. While the OBHS is meant to facilitate the cleaning of coaches during the train’s run, what I witnessed was far from satisfactory service. Despite the staff’s efforts to clean the coaches twice a day, the method of waste disposal was shocking. Instead of properly managing the waste, the staff were seen dumping it through the openings near the toilet, directly onto the tracks or open spaces. This was particularly disheartening as I had diligently used the dustbin to dispose of my waste, hoping it would be managed responsibly. It was evident that the staff’s cleaning activities were superficial, aimed at creating an illusion of cleanliness for passengers. Witnessing this practice, especially near a water body, raised serious concerns about the environmental impact and the lack of sustainable waste management practices on our railways.
Why I will Choose Flight over Train for Future Travels .
We chose the train, wanting to save money and reduce personal carbon footprint. However, my experience on the Indian Railway was a disaster. The train was late, overcrowded with less security and dirty toilets. But the worst part was the irresponsible way of waste disposal. This experience has made me reconsider my future travel plans, possibly opting for flights despite their higher cost and environmental impact. Also prioritising stressless and a comfortable journey. My experience might be unique, but it highlights the need for better train travel conditions.
